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And I am adding new manuals all the time.
Vintage delta milwaukee band saw parts manual#
And check out our! I may have more than one manual that covers your machine. Be sure to add me to your favorites list. Please leave a voicemail and I guarantee that I will get back with you. Or I may be mailing manuals, and can't hear the phone. Shipping: Returns: Contact Us: I may be running machinery. But you get this! Why settle for anything less? Check out my other manuals. All of the manuals are printed on thick white paper to withstand shop wear and tear. And removed stains, wrinkles and handwriting. I have professionally digitally edited every page. Most of the manuals I reproduce look better than their originals. I maintain a high standard of quality in my reproductions. I believe this manual will be a valuable resource of knowledge that will provide a lot of helpful information that is often hard to find. Overview: I have collected this information for many years and have found the information they contain to be priceless in using and setting up the machines properly. Lubrication, maintenance, adjustments, and controls as well as a parts list and diagrams. This manual contains information on set up. Not a photocopy, of an original Delta-Milwaukee 14" Metal and Wood Band Saw Operating and Maintenance manual. more for Our Complete Catalog Manual Description: Number of Pages: 8. 14-inch Metal and Wood Cutting Band Saw Operating and Maintenance Manual Click. Fast Shipping Every Business Day! Delta-Milwaukee. Last edited by Brian Myers 09-02-2010 at 1:42 AM.Untitled Document Free. I personally would stay away from the enclosed steel bases (not sure when they started but the two we had where from 1970 & 1973), as they vibrated too much (nice big sounding chamber) and take up more room (trapezoid shaped). None of them have had a CI base and neither of the open bases have a belt guard. One of the four ,which only cost $25, was parted out when we found it had a trashed drive shaft (frozen bearing spun on shaft and was still being used for some time) and it needed one door.
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Three have needed bearings (oldest one didn`t),all four needed tires, two had to have fresh paint and two needed trunnions. All have been on steel bases and we have paid any where from $20 to $165. My brother and I have had four wood only 14" BS so far. I`ve seen incomplete or butchered cast iron bases bring $100 alone up to $350 for a pristine one. )ĭ) If cast iron base, are there any extra holes in the base? Some people butcher the cast iron bases to fit larger motors.Į) Does it have the original lamp AKA retirement light ?Ĭast Iron bases can raise the price a bit.
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The 1948 catalog doesn`t say the belt guard was cast iron and lists the shipping weight as only 12 lbs. I believe the steel one would be correct for `48.
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What would be a reasonable asking price for one of these saws in today’s market?ī) If open steel base, welded or bolted together base (original steel base would be welded)?Ĭ) If open steel base, does it have the belt guard? If so, steel belt guard or cast iron? (belt guards were an option. It sounds like it’s defiantly a well liked saw. She is a more solid machine compared to newer models. On line metal suppliers carry hex rod and all you would need to do is cut it to length. If you go with a riser kit (newer), this saw will have a hex shaped upper guide post ,newer ones are round. if you add a riser (after market replacement springs work well). One thing that you may want to replace is the tension spring esp. The upper arm casting is sweet compared to new machines, a more ridgid hollow casting instead of one that looks cut away with ribs. Upper and lower guides will be the same as current saws as will be the blade tracking assembly and trunnions ( you would need to salvage the old angle scale plate to put on a new front trunnion so the scale and pointer line up ). Best place to get bearings that I have found is Accurate Bearing, they carry what you would need. The one your looking at will have bearings with extended races which can still be bought or if you know someone with a metal lathe they can easily turn a few spacers to use more current bearings (easier to find and a couple of bucks per bearing cheaper). Very different lower castings, different bearings (machinist work needed to modify to current bearings) and a different lower guide casting design ( a pain to find if you break it, DAMHIK) and (b) 1937-38 solid (steel disc) wheels otherwise the same design as the one your looking at. (a) is 1934-36 first generation with rays on the upper door and the original 1/3 hp RI motor.